RV Celtic Explorer Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey: DAY 19

Date 17/02/2011 Time: 22:00 hrs (UTC)

Position: 51 21.76 N; 055 34.42 W; St. Anthony, northern Newfoundland, docked

Day 19 began with the Celtic Explorer holding station in St. Anthony Bight, just outside the main harbour which was ice laden the previous evening. By mid-day the ice has blown out of the harbour and the vessel was docked at the shrimp plant wharf, where we were warmly greeted with typical rural Newfoundland hospitality by Jim Gibbons, the manager of St. Anthony Cold Storage and former Marine Institute student.

Coming into a now ice-free St. Anthony harbour, Newfoundland and Labrador, on a clear but windy day
(photo by Kate Barley)

Outside, however, the gale raged on, with a deep low off the Labrador Sea that just doesn’t want to push off. We have been instructing it to ‘push off’ in many colourful ways, but to no avail. Mother Nature is in charge here. Winds up to 70 knots are spinning counter-clockwise around this deep low and hammering Labrador and NE Newfoundland. Seas have risen to over 12 m. Some serious damage has been done to breakwaters and some communities under major tidal and storm surges. We can only stay put and watch the forecasts, relying on our experience in this region as to the best time and way to re-engage the survey. It will be at least another day…

Satellite image of the weather patterns in eastern North America today. Notice the swirl in the top right corner, which is the big low that is driving the winds and heavy seas off Labrador and NE Newfoundland
(courtesy of Environment Canada)

The NE and N winds have broken up much of the first year ice and compacted the rest near the coast and into the Strait of Belle Isle. Of note, there is very little ice this year, much less than normal. Harp seals, which pup on the ice at two locations, one in the Gulf of St. Lawrence, as they follow the ice through the Strait of Belle Isle, and the main ground at ‘the front’, normally off NE Newfoundland, will have a difficult time this year, as will our sealers. As the harp seal herd is now over 7 million animals, it is not likely that one poor pupping year will affect the population greatly, but if such conditions persist with a warming climate, there will almost certainly be an impact on distribution and abundance. As pupping time approaches (early April), what will happen will no doubt be interesting.

Current ice conditions in the Newfoundland-Labrador region, with full ice cover shown in red and partial in orange and yellow. Blue and white indicates almost no ice. (courtesy of Environment Canada)

Back in St. Anthony, we wait. Some crew and scientific staff have gone out for walks, others have worked out in the ship gym, still others have read or worked on their projects. Some brave souls have gone to the local Bingo game – the crew will certainly get a warm welcome from the local women what with their sporty Celtic Explorer clothes and charming accents. No Guiness though, it hasn’t made it this far.

Graduate student Genevieve D’Avignon and some crew members happy to touch dry land after the Celtic Explorer docked in St. Anthony (photo Kate Barley)

And so we wait with the patience of Job. The forecast is much better for next week, and we are preparing to pull out all the stops to get the main survey completed.

The Celtic Explorer has now seen its first ice, as loose as it was, and its first taste of the Labrador Sea. I can’t help but think of the Newfoundland song about Lukey’s Boat, changing the words and the tense somewhat ….

‘Aodhan’s boat was painted green, aha me boys,

Aodhan’s boat was painted green,

The prettiest boat we’ve ever seen,

Aha, me boys, a diddle a-day’

There are other verses which we will save for a more appropriate moment.

Until tomorrow say a prayer for better weather.

Blog by Kate Barley with local colour by Dr. George Rose.

RV Celtic Explorer Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey: DAY 18

Blog Day 18: Celtic Explorer Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey

Date 16/02/2011 Time: 22:00 hrs (UTC)

Position: 51 deg 22.9 N 55 deg 33.7 W, Speed 0 Knots, tucked away, safe from the storm.

The Northern Newfoundland town of St. Anthony (photo by Antony Hobin)

After a rough night of attempting to stay ahead of the hurricane force winds and seas during the crossing from the Hawke Channel off Labrador, by first light the Celtic Explorer entered the calmer sheltered waters of St. Anthony Bight and the town of St. Anthony.  The people of this region lived by fishing and hunting seals, and by and large they still do. Until the 1960s there were few or no roads to many Newfoundland outports (remote coastal settlements). Transportation was by boat in summer and fall and dog team in winter. Dr. Wilfred Grenfell established a ‘Mission’ in St. Anthony in the 1800s to serve the medical needs of many of these isolated communities. Before that there were no doctors and little medical care. Grenfell wrote several books about his experiences ‘on the Labrador’ and became a legend in this region. Many of his nurses and medical people are revered to this day along this rugged and isolated coast, with many people owing their lives to their dedication and humanity.

On entering St. Anthony harbour, the initial plan was to dock alongside the shrimp plant until the storm passes. But this plan was quickly put aside as sudden incursions of sea ice made such a plan risky – as more ice crammed into the harbour an easy escape might become impossible, and would require either an icebreaker or waiting until spring! On the wise advice of Newfoundland fishing master Captain Cecil Bannister and concurrence from our English-Irish crew who wanted to see the old country before spring, we left the harbour without touching shore – preferring to wait out the storm by holding position further out the Bight, away from the encroaching ice. 

The Celtic Explorer approaching the dock in St. Anthony (Photo: Jim Parsons, St. Anthony)

The down time has at least one silver lining, that is to organize the many biological samples collected prior to the storm with the specially built Campelen research trawl (designed to catch small but representative samples of most demersal - near bottom living – species).

The hardy Irish deck crew and the hauling in of the research net from waters with temperatures of -2 C the day prior to hurricane force winds. Such waters will freeze the hands in seconds (photo: Antony Hobin)

Fishery biologist Wade Hiscock and Technician Gordon Adams, both well seasoned Newfoundlanders, doing some final work on fish samples in the wet lab (photo: Antony Hobin)

Despite the storm, the day ended with some beautifully clear skies and a wonderful sunset.  It feels strange, but is a great relief to both scientists and crew, to be on the Celtic Explorer in calm waters after many stormy days. We wait in patience, the greatest virtue of all, for peaceful seas.

The rugged shores of northern Newfoundland as photographed from the bridge of the Celtic Explorer, as we hold position in St. Anthony Bight. Eric the Red and his band of Vikings landed near here about 1000 years ago – their longhouses uncovered by archaeologists some decades ago and now a Canadian National Monument. Several battles were fought with the Inuit people and Eric abandoned his settlement. His women, in true Viking style, fought right along with the men, and from the Sagas perhaps were fiercer (Photo: Kate Barley)

Until tomorrow ….

Blog by Kate Barley and Dr. George Rose

RV Celtic Explorer Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey: DAY 17

Date 15/02/2011 Time: 20:00 hrs (UTC)

Position: 52 deg 29.4 N 54 deg 09.0 W, Speed 12 Knots, heading for St. Anthony and cover

Wind increasing to 45 Knots, with overnight expected to 65 knots NE and 10-12 m seas

Today was a decent survey day and much work was done by both shifts through day and night - with the echosounders backed up by several fishing sets. Much was learned about the distribution of juvenile Atlantic cod and pandalid shrimp.

Graduate student Livia Goodbrand monitors the acoustic data (or did she just swallow the canary?)
(photo by Ricoh)

Surface water temperatures in the study region reached -2.1 C – the infamous southward flowing Labrador Current. Some cold! CTDs (conductivity, temperature and depth) recorded from the Celtic Explorer show that this cold water does not extend below 200m, with a warm lens of Atlantic Ocean water with temperatures above 4 C occupying the bottom hundreds of metres in this region. Most of the fish in this region prefer the warmer waters and in winter are found there.

 

CTD profile of temperature and salinity off Labrador.

Meanwhile, the sampling must continue …..

The night shift sampling – graduate students Livia Goodbrand, Laura Wheeland, Craig Knickle and Kate Barley (doing double time from the day shift) at work (photo by Ricoh).

Back in the dry lab, the steadily growing database is monitored and quality checked ….

 

Fishery biologist Wade Hiscock wades through the data (photo by Ricoh)

STORM WARNING!!!

Unfortunately, the respite from harsh weather lasted only about 12 hours, and tonight the expectation is hurricane force NE winds – the worst kind in these waters – with seas expected to rise above 10 m!! Based on expert advice from our Newfoundland fishing master, Captain Cecil Bannister, we are heading for cover, discretion by far the better part of valour. The nearest ice free port is the northern Newfoundland town of St. Anthony (near the green blob on the map), the home of the famous Grenfell Mission, which served the coast of Labrador and northern Newfoundland for many years. Close by is the ancient Viking settlement at L’Anse aux Meadows, where Eric the Red visited some 1000 years ago from Iceland and Greenland and perhaps established the famous Vinland (it was warmer then). These are also the waters first fished for whales and cod by adventurous Basques in the late 1400s, and then by French and English adventurers and fishermen thereafter and by Newfoundlanders and Labradorians to the present day.

 

The most easterly region and Province of Canada - Newfoundland and Labrador. The Celtic Explorer is now heading from the Labrador Sea to the safe haven of St. Anthony, near the tip of the Great Northern Peninsula. The Labrador coast is closer, but wind driven ice blocks the way.

Dr. Rose has been interested in the history of this region of northern Newfoundland and southern Labrador, and their fisheries, for many years. He did his doctoral thesis on the cod and capelin fisheries of the Labrador Straits region, and witnessed the early archaeological explorations of the 15^th Century Basque whaling station at Red Bay in Labrador.

Chief Scientist Dr. George Rose studying a 17^th Century map of this region on his Mac (photo by Ricoh)

We will likely be harbour bound for the next two days until this fierce winter storm subsides.

Time to organize the collected data, read, and perhaps finish outstanding papers and project proposals. The important thing is that we will be safe in a snug and historic harbour in northern Newfoundland.

Until next time…

Blog by Dr. George Rose (a second string blogger for sure – but all other hands were working in the lab tonight)

RV Celtic Explorer Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey: DAY 16

Date 14/02/2011 Time: 20:00 hrs (UTC)

 

Position: 53 deg 06.78 N 54 deg 08.09 W, Speed 0-3 Knots, ‘jogging’ in the ice

Wind 40 Knots, with gusts up to 65 knots

 

Happy but windy Valentines Day! Seas today were fit only for ‘jogging’ (holding place or slightly moving against rough seas), but they did provide a good time for in-depth discussion about our research projects while we wait for the winds to abate and the seas to calm. 

Research discussions among the Day Watch in the dry lab. Left to Right: Chief Scientist Dr. George Rose, graduate students Kyle Krumsick, Craig Knickle, and Gen D’Avignon, & sea technician Ed Stern (Photo: Kate Barley).

There was also time for some additional charting of the ‘Hawke Channel Closed Area’, a large 50 by 50 nautical mile area closed to trawling and gill netting for almost 10 years. This area is under study by Kate Barley as part of her PhD thesis.

Kate & Ed chart plotting the Hawke Channel Closed Area (Photo Craig Knickle)

Meanwhile, the winds and seas raged to conditions unfit for any scientific surveying – we just have to wait this one out. Today we had winds gusting to over 65 knots, which is hurricane force 12 according to the Beaufort Wind Force Scale, invented by Irish born, Rear Admiral, Sir Francis Beaufort in 1805.

Unfortunately, worse conditions are forecast after a predicted break in the weather tomorrow. As should be evident, winter research on the North Atlantic is all about the weather. We must work with it, and never against.

The raging winter seas off Labrador (variously known locally as the Big Land, but also as the land God gave to Cain), view from the bridge (photo: Laura Wheeland).

These waters formerly held one of the greatest cod stocks in the North Atlantic – rebuilding has been slow over the past 20 years.

For a detailed account of the history of this fishery and its demise, see ‘Cod: the ecological history of the North Atlantic fishery’, authored by our Chief Scientist, Dr. George Rose, and published by Breakwater Books, St. John’s, Newfoundland and Labrador, in 2007.

 

In the ice, if the winds are right, the seas are tamed somewhat – it’s a good place to be! This is soft first year land ice, and no danger to the vessel. Old multi-year hard ice would be a different matter, as would be much older iceberg ice (photo: Ed Stern)

Until next time…

Blog by Kate Barley & Dr. George Rose

RV Celtic Explorer Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey: DAY 15

Date 13/02/2011 Time: 20:00 hrs (UTC)

Position: 53 deg 06.78  N 54 deg 08.09 W, Speed 3 Knots, in ice

Wind 40 Knots W

So the theme today is not just ice, but a mix of things from the weather (everyone loves to talk about the weather), to the scientific.  But to start off, as we are now living amongst it, here is another photo of the sea ice for all of those ice-spotters out there… I believe the correct term for this is ‘pancake’ sea ice.  The bright surface, as shown in the photo is because 80 percent of sunlight that strikes it is reflected back into space*

Ice flowing past the Celtic Explorer (Photo: Kate Barley)

The wind speed has been up at around 40 Knots today and we recorded the coldest surface water temperature of -2.01⁰ C.  The air temperature warmed up a little from yesterday with southerly winds and the ice kept the waves down.  A lot more seals were spotted on the ice too.

The coldest recorded water temperature so far (photo: Kate Barley)

We managed to do some sampling and found some interesting species; the wet lab on the Celtic Explorer is wonderfully equipped with the scientific equipment of a research lab and all of the scientists got stuck in with sorting, identifying, counting and measuring.

Harp Seals on the ice (photo: Antony Hobin). The NW Atlantic herd is now estimated at over 7-8 million animals.

Craig Knickle and Kyle Krumsick sorting through biological samples in the wetlab (Photo: Ed Stern)

In addition to surveying commercially important fishes, we are investigating the presence of rare and interesting species. Some of the interesting invertebrates collected were Echinoderms, including Basket stars (seen in the photo below).  With over 6000 species, Echinoderms are an interesting and diverse marine phylum.  Once adults, these animals are bottom dwelling, have radial symmetry and are interesting as they have no eyes, heart or brain. The name Echinoderm means ‘Spiny skinned’ in Greek and they can regenerate if certain parts are removed. 

Invertebrate samples (photo:Kate Barley)

           

Can anyone name this species?  (Photo: Kate Barley)

One specimen that we have been as yet unable to identify to species is shown above.  This specimen was found at 426m depth, is 11cm in length, with a soft body and hard ‘spines’ all around it.  The underneath shows the radial symmetry and the thought it is could be a sea cucumber.  Any more ideas please let us know. 

In the dry lab, interesting things were also happening with fish identification, data collection and the continuous monitoring of the scientific echosounder. 

Chief scientist Dr. George Rose working with graduate student Kyle Krumsick in the Acoustics Lab.

As the survey moves along, much time is spent entering and organizing data collected into databases ready for analysis. 

Kate Barley working through some of the data (Photo: Gen DAvingon)

And to end, here is some of our wonderful crew on the bridge with the best view on the ship, and by the look of it, some pretty fancy seats. 

Officer of Watch Richard O’Regan and Deckhand Alec Carty on the Bridge (Photo:Kate Barley)

Until next time…

Blog by Kate Barley

*(Source: National Snow and Ice Data Center)

RV Celtic Explorer Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey: Day 14

Date 11/02/2011 Time: 1831 hrs (UTC)

Position: 52 deg 33.5 N 53 deg 48.4 W, Speed 9.5 Knots

Wind 33 Knots W

The Celtic Explorer in the ice (photo Kate Barley)

ICE!  This is our theme of the day.

The Celtic Explorer is all covered in ice today as we continue northwards in our quest.

Celtic Explorer’s ice covered bow (Photo: Antony Hobin)

Luckily for those of us who were feeling a little under the weather yesterday, the seas have now calmed down a little bit. The excitement today was of the ice covered boat and an icy sea. We have some blue skies and sunshine today too so we are counting ourselves lucky, however at -10 degrees centigrade, its no sunbathing weather!

Icy overhead (Photo: Ed Stern)

Icy topsides (Photo: Ed Stern)

We spotted Harp seals on one of the ice flows; they were fairly far away, but still really great to see. Ed wished he had a telephoto lens.

                          

Seals on the ice (Photo: Antony Hobin)

No swimming out there today! (Photo: Antony Hobin)

Captain Antony Hobin surveys the ice while PhD student Kate Barley looks on, enjoying a cup of tea.
(Photo: Paddy Kenney)

The bridge offered some great views of the ice, including front row seats as the crew braved the weather to beat away ice on the foredeck. 

Bosun Davy Murphy trying to warm his hands on the foredeck by the only means available.  (photo: Ed Stern)

Celtic Explorer and her tender Tom Crean. Photo: Susan Fudge

The lovely calm waters of Trinity Bay – dropping off Susan and Harold on Day 13. Susan forwarded this photo to us once she was safely back in St. John’s.

Here are some fun pictures to end with, many of the students suited up in their survival gear during a boat drill we had on our first day aboard. All the serious safety stuff aside, everyone was secretly wondering if orange was their colour. Riley certainly looks proud with his new look.

MSc students Laura Wheeland, Riley Pollom and Livia Goodbrand, PhD student Craig Knickle, and Susan Fudge, all geared up and prepared during the boat drill.  (Photo: Ed Stern)

In the dry lab a little poker league started up during some quiet time, the lack of poker chips meant some initiative had to be used and Ed’s gummy bears came into good use.  The game sadly ended in defeat for Ed and Craig; Ed’s poker face did not hold up and Kate won the game!

Craig, Ed and Kate playing Texas hold ‘em Poker. (Photo: Kyle Krumsick)

Blog by

Kate Barley



RV Celtic Explorer Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey: Day 13

Following her arrival in St. John's Newfoundland and a welcome reception, the RV Celtic Explorer begins her mission on the Newfoundland & Labrador Fishery Survey.

Scientists from Newfoundland take up the blog . . .

Date 11/02/2011 Time: 1831 hrs (UTC)

Position: 49 deg 49.6 N 52 deg 55.7 W, Speed 5 Knots

Wind 36 Knots W

Forget the lovely bacon-wrapped scallops and jerk chicken strips served at the Portabello’s reception in St. John’s, never mind our romantic departure through the Narrows; what sticks for us so far is the wind-whipped snow-drift’d first night in Trinity Bay preparing to test the survey trawl. Even the long seasoned Irish fishermen took snaps of the frozen trawl and sideways blowing snow. Those of us underdressed that night met a piercing cold which ushered us back into the protection of the Dry Lab or to our bunks to sleep off the first night at sea. The hardiest that night were the fishermen in their winter-ready coveralls, and gear technician Harold DeLouche from Newfoundland & Labrador’s Marine Institute.

Delouche looking over the trawl and frozen deck during a brief lull. Photo by Ed Stern

We woke the next morning to a spectacular crisp winter day anchored in Bull Arm, Trinity Bay, to calibrate the EK60. We completed the calibration by suspending a reference sphere underneath the EK60’s transducer and making adjustments based on signal strength. Calibration a time consuming process, but it ensures the data we collect will be of the highest precision.



Dr. Rose looking after the reference sphere deployment. Photo By Liv Goodbrand



Hauling anchor that evening we steamed back into Trinity Bay for a second night of gear testing and preparation to run survey transects in Smith Sound at first light. Tom Clinch from Petley took a few snaps as Celtic Explorer passed his home yesterday early. Tom is a fine photographer, and Celtic Explorer makes a fine subject.

 



Celtic Explorer in Smith Sound, photo by Tom Clenche



Late yesterday we let off DeLouche and Susan Fudge in Random Sound’s Southwest Arm in Trinity Bay. DeLouche was aboard only to help us properly deploy the Campelen survey trawl. Fudge, one of Dr. George Rose’s many prodigies, came along to observe for a few days before returning to her regular work and waiting family. After leaving DeLouche and Fudge we began the long steam to Northern Labrador, leaving the calm waters of Trinity Bay behind for the North Atlantic.

At present we are 10 miles Northeast of Funk Island, heading Northwest by North. Cecil Bannister, a Newfoundland fisherman accompanying the entire survey, just checked in to see that all is well. It’s grey, cold, and the 3-meter swell is rolling us just so to keep some of the new scientists in their bunks with wobbly knees and upset stomachs. Despite this inner-ear adversity, the scientists are adjusting well to their new life at sea, making friends among the crew, and all aboard are in good spirits.



PhD. Student Kate Barley and MSc. Students Kyle Krumsick and Genevieve D’Avignon tying tummy tags in preparation for sampling. Photo by Ed Stern

 

Ed Stern

RV Celtic Explorer - Newfoundland Mission: DAY SEVEN

Date: 06-Feb-2011

Time: 20:00UTC

Position: St Johns Newfoundland 

We have landed!

The crew had a busy day in preparation for our arrival into St Johns.  The guys on board got their best suits out.

Will Smith eat your heart out! Stephen Lantry, Davy Murphy and Alex Carty all ready for the weather!
Photo: Sheena Fennell

 The crew spent the morning working through the snow giving the boat a final clean in preparation for landing.

We carried out a CTD at the entrance to St Johns and all went well.

At 15:00 our pilot boat arrived

St Johns Pilot Boat arriving alongside 2 miles from shore Photo: Sheena Fennell

It was busy up in the bridge as everyone waited in anticipation to reach St.Johns

   

Beautiful scenery welcomed us in to the natural harbour Photo:Sheena Fennell



First line ashore in St.Johns Newfoundland Photo:Sheena Fennell



RV Celtic Explorer ashore in St. Johns
Photo: Aodhan Fitzgerald



And so we are now settled in alongside the pier with a beautiful view

Photo: Sheena Fennell

It’s been a tough crossing and credit must be given to all the crew for making a safe passage across the North Atlantic and to the cooks for keeping us fed during the tough conditions. 

I think we will be heading up the town for a well earned wander tonight!

Sheena Fennell